A first-hand recount of a 10-day road trip through Australia’s Apple Isle

Words Matt Castell, curatedtravel.com.au

Instead of a road trip up the coast over the summer break, this year, we headed ‘overseas’ to the Apple Isle, Tasmania, for a driving holiday around the island state. You can fly directly to three major airports – Hobart, Launceston and Devonport from Sydney – in less than two hours. We hired a car and started our adventure in Launceston. One of Australia’s oldest cities, the small, walkable town boasts amazing well-preserved Georgian era buildings, beautiful parks and one of the best farmers markets in the Southern Hemisphere, held on Saturdays.

We used “Launie” as a base to explore the Tamar Valley Wine Trail – a region filled with incredible cool-climate wineries and restaurants. A favourite was Swinging Gate Vineyard, which has as a wide range of traditional and naturally fermented options to try. They also have luxury accommodation pods in the vineyard – book ahead, as they’re very popular.

Our next stop was Derby, only two-hours east of Launceston. The tiny town, started in the early 1800s due to tin mining, then fell into disrepair, until recently when a network of mountain bike trails was set up, called the Blue Derby Trails. Now, the town’s cafes and pubs are filled with happy, muddy trail riders that gives it a ski resort vibe… just swap the snow for mud.

If you’re not into flying downhill on two wheels, there are plenty of hikes and to keep you busy. One of the highlights of our trip was booking the Floating Sauna, a 10-minute walk from town. You can book a private one-hour session, which comes with a ‘sauna master’ on hand to make sure all you have to do is relax and enjoy your hot-cold sauna experience. The sauna sits on Lake Derby, a beautiful 22-degree lake to dive into (multiple times) during your session. Book ahead and bring plenty of water to drink.

We stayed in a town called Winnaleah, which has a population of less than 250 people, a pub and a post office. It’s a seven-minute drive to Derby and offers an authentic country town vibe. Stop into the Winnaleah Hotel for a ‘six’ of Cascade Lager and a game of pool with one of the friendly locals. The food is top-notch pub grub, and the staff are great for a bit of friendly banter.

Off we headed, through ancient rainforests and lush pastures towards the East Coast. Roughly halfway to the coast, we pulled into Pyengana Dairy and Farmgate Cafe. Their coffee is on-point – how can it not be when the cows are being milked 20m away. Their cheese is some of the best I’ve tried, and you can also enjoy traditional scones in the backyard with the cows roaming.

We hit the coast at St Helens, a quaint town surrounded by oyster farms and hills. We turned north to have a gander at Binalong Bay, which is at the south end of Bay of Fires. The water is crystal clear, the sand is white, and the scenery is jaw-dropping. I wish we had longer to stay here.

Another couple hours southward, via scenic coastal roads, we hit our next destination – Freycinet Lodge. More amazing, uncrowded beaches, mouth-watering oysters, wine, and friendly locals. Coles Bay is framed by a small, picturesque, rocky mountain and the famous Wineglass Bay, which can be accessed by a three-hour hike or a short boat trip.

This was the ‘splurge’ part of the trip – we indulged in locally caught seafood, many bottles of wine from the region and in-room massages, arranged by the lodge. I can’t fault Freycinet Lodge – definitely book ahead so you don’t miss out.

Another two-hour drive south, we hit the thriving port of Hobart. We left early so we could catch the famous Salamanca Markets (held on Saturdays), where we munched on regional and exotic foods and filled our bags with produce to take home with us.

Hobart has an amazing pub and restaurant scene. We didn’t make any plans and ended up crawling our way around town tasting snacks and drinks as we went. Tassie is also a haven for whisky lovers. You can do a tasting at many spots or do a full day distillery tour.

We spent our last day at MONA (Museum of Old and New Art). It’s one of the weirdest places I’ve ever been and an absolute must-visit. It’s located 30-minutes from town, and they offer a ferry from Hobart Marina. We booked ‘Posh Pit’ tickets, which come with delicious canapes and unlimited drinks while onboard – a wonderful way to start a visit to a wacky museum built into the side of a cliff.

Then to top off a visit to MONA, when you exit the building on the top floor, you’re greeted by a craft beer brewery, food trucks and a grassy area with musicians. We spent a couple hours lazing in the sun, sipping wine, and talking about our museum experience, then headed back to town on the boat (with more food and drinks).

Tassie has reinvigorated my interest is visiting more of Australia, especially regional areas, and smaller towns. At times, it felt like I’d time-travelled back to the 1970s when life was slower, conversations longer and more open space.  If that sounds like fun to you, give Tassie a thought for your next holiday.

For help planning your next getaway, get in touch at matt@curatedtravel.com.au