When South Sailor first opened its doors in 2017, Thirroul’s seaside dining scene was on the cusp of transformation. Owner Graham Ette and his small but dedicated crew ran a tight ship to find their rhythm – anchoring their new venture in the laid-back energy of the coast they called home.
With a four-person team and a handful of casuals, those early days were all about setting the tone; coastal flavours, relaxed service, and a focus on community. “It was about creating something that felt true to Thirroul,” Graham says. “We wanted that beachside, easy-going feel but with really good food.”
Over the years, Graham, alongside a growing team, stayed true to their vision of a relaxed, coastal and community-minded space, with food that spoke to its surroundings. Today, their crew of 18 staff is a testament to how far the restaurant has come.
But it hasn’t all been smooth sailing. Like many businesses, South Sailor has faced its share of challenges, from the pandemic shutdowns, the bushfires of 2020 and the heavy rains that damaged their outdoor dining area, to inflation, spiraling costs and the ongoing staff shortages that have plagued the hospitality industry. “Every time you think you’ve seen it all, something new hits,” Graham says. “It’s really made us look at every part of the business and work smarter.”
In the wake of these challenges, South Sailor has held steady by adapting, refining and finding silver linings, even expanding into caviar as a side venture. But through it all, Graham credits the Thirroul community for keeping business afloat. “We’ve kept our focus on the locals. They’re our bread and butter,” he says.
For Graham, Thirroul isn’t just a workplace – it’s home. “I live around the corner, my kids go to school here. It’s a great community. Every day is different. I might be on the floor, in the kitchen, chatting with locals; and you never stop learning in food. There are always new flavours, new products, new ideas.”
This blend of pioneering spirit and coastal comfort is reflected in the restaurant’s menu. While it continues to evolve, some dishes have stood the test of time, like the Japanese-inspired South Sailor fish tacos that have been a favourite since day one. Poke bowls and classic fish and chips remain at the helm, alongside an ever-changing selection of seasonal sushi, sashimi and small plates to keep things fresh.
So what’s on the horizon for South Sailor? For now, Graham hopes for calmer seas. “Honestly, I’m just looking forward to things settling down a bit. Hopefully interest rates drop and people feel more comfortable spending again. We’re lucky Thirroul still attracts tourists and has a strong local base.”
With Thirroul’s rising star as a dining destination, Graham is optimistic about the region’s growing food scene. While some locals may be nostalgic for the ‘good old days’, he sees opportunity in the growth of the northern Illawarra suburbs.
“More locals, more foot traffic, more bums on seats,” he says. “There are so many great new spots opening. Thirroul’s dining scene offers quality dining and bar experiences for every occasion – it’s a true drawcard for foodies and holiday makers from Sydney and further afield. It’s exciting to be part of that.”
After a rocky but rewarding voyage of challenges and community connections, South Sailor remains anchored in its coastal roots – a place where resilience meets reinvention and good food meets good people, all served with a side of salt and sunshine.
And despite eight years of stormy seas, Graham wouldn’t hesitate to do it all again. “Financially, it’s a ridiculous business, but personally, it’s incredibly rewarding. I get to play with beautiful food every day, and we know half the community. That’s what it’s all about.”
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