Plant-based feasting is on the rise: meet the people at Wollongong’s Karma Tea House serving it up
Words and images Olivia Tollardo
Previously located within the humble walls of the Nan Tien Temple, the Karma Tea House team have spread their wings, settling into the heart of Wollongong CBD. Determined to breathe life into the future of plant-based hospitality, they’re open seven days from 10:30am to 9pm, serving vibrant dishes with genuine excitement.
Inspired by the years of success creating healthy and wholesome food at the Nan Tien Temple, James (owner and chef) decided against renewing his restaurant lease in Berkeley. Instead, he used it as an opportunity for growth, landing a prime location on Keira Street earlier this year.
After over a decade of studying ophthalmology at Harvard University and managing restaurants in Sydney, James feels like he’s found his true calling. Motivated by the concept of Australian spirit and good karma, he wants people not just to enjoy his food, but to communicate with each other, make friends, relax and experience the essence of living in the Illawarra.
And that’s exactly what he’s doing.
Using the precision of an ophthalmologist and the ‘farm to table’ motto as guidance, James crafted his menu to promote delicious, healthy and beautiful food. The roots of mushrooms create layered and ‘meaty’ textures that are exclusive to the tea house. Then, they’re coupled with fresh produce and paired with rice or noodles, or even folded into dumplings. The end result? A colourful dish for people to visually consume before digging in.
Although running a limited menu due to COVID restrictions, most of the thoughtfully-named dishes are also vegan, with the capacity to make gluten-free options on request. Some crowd favourites include the fried crispy ‘chicken,’ lucky and happy. The dishes have all been intentionally named to influence how you’ll feel after eating – James really does want you to feel happy or successful after eating one of his dishes.
Not hungry? That’s fine too! Karma Tea House whips up tea, milkshakes and coffee that are arguably ahead of their time. After going up to Sydney to roast coffee beans with a friend, James brings his lightly-roasted coffee back to Wollongong. Order a three colour iced latte with a milk of your choice to taste an innovative blend of matcha and espresso, or an iced long black made with coconut water for a unique refreshment on a hot day. Keen on a flat white, latte or cappuccino? Easy!
James has a different definition of success for his restaurant. Prioritising happiness and friendship ahead of financial gain has allowed him to create a space that prides itself on positivity and joy. Luck radiates from the maneki-neko [Chinese lucky cat] and a seated Buddha statue rests on the far wall, overlooking the restaurant and streets of Wollongong. Although the space reserved for dine-in customers is currently unused, the tables line the front of the shop to display menus of neighbouring restaurants.
As James puts it: he’s got to support the community, just like they support him. Which is also why he’s continued to provide free local delivery and substantially discounted meals – it’s his way of supporting the community during lockdown and these trying times.
James hopes that by making his food accessible, he’ll inspire people to cook fresh, healthy and vegetarian meals at home. Although he admits it can be expensive to continually purchase fresh vegetables, he’s adamant that ‘green food’ is the future and will grow his restaurant to follow suit.
Post-lockdown, Karma Tea House hopes to expand their menu to include desserts, cocktails and light wines. Although prices may rise by a few dollars to help them operate under normal hospitality conditions, James and his front of house manager Andy hope that their regular customers continue to return.
They’re excited to welcome everybody through their door with a big smile when it’s deemed safe to do so.
Find them on Instagram @kth_vegetarian
2/179-181 Keira St, Wollongong NSW 2500