Believed to be one of only seven fully enclosed valleys in the world, Kangaroo Valley earned this reputation thanks to its evergreen landscape, stunning waterways and famous bridge.
But I see none of those as I descend from Cambewarra Mountain one crisp weekend morning. What I see is the valley’s other famous feature: the patchy blanket of fog with the valley floor in its moody embrace. But as this slowly lifts under the warmth of the sunshine, the green pastures beneath are gradually revealed and I can’t help but be moved by the view.
Arriving in Kangaroo Valley is like entering another world – one of ancient, untouched wilderness, dairy cows wandering on farmland, and a village that’s a seamless mix of historic buildings and modern culture. Everyone knows everyone and there’s a distinctive ‘slower’ pace.
But don’t be fooled into thinking that means this is a sleepy hollow devoid of activity.
My first stop is for doughnuts to carry along on the adventures I have planned. I’ve heard the soft and pillowy offerings in KV rival those from a famous van over the mountain, so I pop in to Terra & Mare to grab some.
Before I keep going towards my planned day of adventure, I just have to check out the local stores. There are only a handful, but each one offers something unique. There are antiques and books, men’s gifts and retro trinkets, crystals and outdoor gear. I have to say The Hive captivates my heart though, with its beautiful, Australian brand homewares, clothing and accessories. I don’t come out empty handed!
As I wander between shops there are groups of people enjoying their weekend brunches in all the cafes, some with dogs in tow. The coffee is flowing as thick and fast as the relaxed and happy conversation, and there are even lines outside local favourite cafe The General. It’s clear the secret of Kangaroo Valley is out!
No visit to KV is complete without stopping at famous Hampden Bridge for a photo. It’s actually the third most photographed bridge in the country – after the Harbour Bridge and Seacliff Bridge – and was the scene for the climax of Australia’s first silent film, The Man from Kangaroo, which was released in 1920. Built in 1896, the bridge is also the oldest surviving vehicular suspension bridge in the country, having survived many floods (unlike its predecessor, which washed away just six days after Hampden Bridge was opened).
Beneath the bridge is where I drop in my canoe. This journey from here to Bendeela takes about an hour, and starts with some mini rapids (don’t worry, they’re the fun kind not the “OMG I’m going to die” kind), then the river opens up and you glide over the glassy water, past lush forest and many water dragons, towards the grassy campground. It’s a beautiful and relaxing trip that I highly recommend.
My verdict on the valley? It ’s a haven for nature lovers that provides the space to just breathe
Besides being the ‘canoe capital of Australia’, KV – as it’s known by the locals – is home to some stunning bushwalks. I’ve decided to explore the Three Views Track, so named for its three track options, each with breathtaking views at the end. As I’m running out of time I choose the shorter Tallowa Dam route and am happy to find it’s an easy flat walk to the cliff’s edge, where the views open up like a perfect work of nature’s art before me. Just incredible.
My verdict on the valley? It’s a haven for nature lovers that provides the space to just breathe. The quaint little village, the scenery, the activities… I feel like I’ve only just lightly touched its surface; only quickly glanced at its hidden secrets. How special to have this place on our doorstep!