Founded by pioneering local chef Emma Huber, Millers’ is an Illawarra institution. Drive past the Bulli bakery on a Saturday morning and you’ll likely see a line of locals queuing outside; the promise of a pain au chocolat too tempting to pass up. Now, there’s another reason to join the queue: authentic Italian gelato, courtesy of Riccardo Malvicini.
“Do you want to try the lemon myrtle?” Riccardo asks, standing behind his pozzetti. “I’ve been experimenting.” He hands me a wooden pop stick with a creamy white dollop at either end. Admittedly, I’m not one for unusual flavours – but I’m not about to turn down a free sample either.
Lucky for me, Riccardo’s herbaceous experiment is a revelation. It’s intense but not acidic; a strong citrus punch infused into a rich fior di latte base. Maybe my palate is more sophisticated than I thought. Or maybe Riccardo’s just really good at his job.
“What I love about making gelato is that whatever flavour I want to create, I can just add it in,” he explains. “Gelato is about mass. You have to calculate the quantity of sugar, fat and liquid. And depending on that, you have your result.” He makes it sound simple, but according to Emma, there’s no discrediting Riccardo’s talent. “His skill is incredible. He was talking to me about balancing sugars and understanding the temperature and I was quite overwhelmed by how intricate it is.”
Before moving to Australia in 2018, the Lombardian spent four years learning to make gelato in one of Italy’s most renowned gelaterias. “As soon as I finished pastry school, I got a call from a guy opening a new ice cream shop in Milan. I’d never had the opportunity to work in a gelato shop, so I said ‘okay’.” The shop in question? Ciacco, an ice cream “laboratory” near the city’s famed Piazza del Duomo.
“The owner was like a scientist,” Riccardo remembers. “He was always trying something different with fruits and vegetables. He made me fall in love with the idea of making gelato.”
A quick flick through Ciacco’s website reveals some surprising flavours: pulled beef, olive oil and beeswax. Gelato like that might not make the menu at Millers’, but a weekly special will be on offer. “I have a few classics like caramel, pistachio and chocolate because everyone loves them. But I always have a special one for people to try.”
I opt for a scoop of pistachio and hazelnut, two timeless flavours that Riccardo executes like a pro. At the risk of sounding gushy, I haven’t tasted ice cream this good in either hemisphere. I should have read the signs: If Millers’ new gelato is attracting Italians, it must be molto good.
So, how does a pastry chef from Voghera end up making gelato on the Coal Coast? Like many Europeans, Riccardo came for a holiday and never left.
“I moved to Australia for three to four months to escape the European winter. After experiencing the lifestyle and receiving a sponsorship offer as a chef for the Rockpool company, I decided to stay.”
When COVID took the shine away from city life, Riccardo moved to the coast. It was Emma’s artisanal pâtisseries that inspired him to stay.
“While I was handing out my resume, I stopped by Millers’ to try their amazing almond croissants. I decided to leave my CV, had an interview and started working for them immediately.”
When Millers’ moved its production to a larger space in Wollongong, the team decided to use part of the Bulli outpost for gelato production. “In Italy, there are at least two-to-three gelato shops per suburb,” Riccardo explains. “After I moved down the coast, I realised there weren’t many ice cream shops, so it could be an opportunity.” With pastries, bread and gelato on offer, Millers’ Local Bakehouse in Bulli hits the sweet spot.
Wondering what to try on your next visit? Riccardo recommends the caramel gelato. Emma suggests the frangipane tart with seasonal stone fruit. And me? Whatever you can get your hands on.
For more info, follow @millerslocalbakehouse on Instagram or visit millerslocalbakehouse.com
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